Chanel Dresses: A Vintage to Modern Guide

The Chanel brand was originally founded in France in 1910 by the young creative the fashion world knows and loves as “Coco” Gabrielle Chanel. She cultivated the Chanel fashion empire from a single hat shop in the streets of Paris, from which she grew to open accessory, sportswear, and couture shops appealing to an even wider audience. As the world discovered Chanel’s clothing and accessories, the brand began to be adopted by many of France’s cultural trendsetters including the Paris-based ballet company named the “Ballets Russes”.

A large part of the brand’s popularity came from its high-quality materials, expert craftsmanship, and ready-to-wear dresses. At the time of its creation, many high-end designers crafted pieces based on each customer’s order. This guaranteed quality, but also meant that shopping at luxury stores was expensive and time-consuming, the alternative generally being purchasing poor-quality premade clothes. Chanel was one of the first designers to guarantee luxury craftsmanship in all their work, famous for utilizing high-end leather and Scottish wool in both pre-made and haute couture pieces. This expectation of durability, ease, and beautiful quality in all designs, has carried through the century, solidifying Chanel as a true pillar in the high-end fashion industry. But how did the brand really come into the fame and recognition it now experiences? Read further to follow the timeline of pivotal Chanel dress designs from the retro to the modern.

The early 1900s are commonly remembered for the rise of women’s hemlines and the beginning of the glitz and glamour of the roaring 20s. Coco Chanel as a designer was one of the purveyors of this change in costume. Her original fringe and flapper designs are often referenced as the real creation of the “little black dress” concept in fashion. This innovation in women’s clothing forever opened up the world to the acceptance of more free and modern designs in women’s haute couture designs.

Another Chanel staple that has carried throughout its century-long lifespan is its signature use of tweed fabrics in almost every collection. Jackie Kennedy, an icon for many women in the 1960s, popularized this material as the First Lady of the United States with a wardrobe full of Chanel dresses and suit separates. These silhouettes constantly appeared on the Chanel runway in both vintage and modern collections. Great examples of the Chanel two-piece tweed design can be seen in the Fall/Winter 2021 runway show in their rendition of this classic tweed party dress. Another prime example of the modernized tweed dress can be seen in this Scottish wool black and white minidress.

Karl Lagerfeld cultivated a monumental following in the fashion world as an innovative, brilliant, and beloved designer. Taking on the role of Creative Director for the house of Chanel in 1983, he revived the brand’s image and pulled the house out of the stagnancy it had been experiencing. In his first collection for the house, the Fall/winter 1984 collection, large shoulders, suit separates, and dramatically angular silhouettes were consistent themes between pieces. This show marked the move away from the earlier tweed suits popularized in the 60s and pushed for a true subversion of the traditional gendered menswear look. This collection’s use of these large shoulder designs and impeccably tailored suit silhouettes has left a strong impression on the brand to this day. Pieces including this navy, blue, and white dress from the Spring/Summer 2022 collection demonstrate this continuity between retro to modern.

Princess Diana, a member of the British Royal family and an international icon for women around the world, was often dressed in Chanel suits and dresses throughout the 90s. One of her most famous fashion moments captured by the press occurred on her visit to France when she dawned a rose-red jacket and suit set. Princess Diana’s love of Chanel yet again boosted the Chanel brand and further popularized its collections containing brighter designs with bolder shoulder padding and detailing. These color and style details can be now seen in pieces from modern collections like this hot pink minidress.

Another example of this reinvention of retro trends began on Chanel’s Fall/Winter 1990 runway. As one of the crowning looks in this show, supermodel Claudia Schiffer wore a stunning gold-laden gown studded with pearls and colorful gems. This jaw-dropping piece was more recently recreated in a viral Met Gala look worn by Lily-Rose Depp in 2019. The conversations that this piece started on social media reminded the fashion world that Chanel was more than the tweed suit designs it has recently been characterized as.

The past few years have shown a huge resurfacing of popular retro trends in the modern fashion industry. Many of the previously mentioned historical fashion moments for Chanel are sure to resurface in some of the coming year’s collections. There is one big trend however that we already know will be making a comeback this year.

90’s monogrammed prints and minidresses are making a reappearance across most designer runways this season. If you want to invest in a piece that is both trendy and timeless, monogrammed designs like this Chanel minidress are sure to be perfect additions to your summertime wardrobe. Another example of this look comes in this bold black and white Chanel sweater dress. These options are especially great due to their neutral tones allowing you to dress these pieces up or down depending on your mood. Adding a Monogrammed or bold print to your collection will give you a fashion-forward statement look for any occasion.

It seems like there are almost an infinite amount of trendsetting moments Chanel has been a part of in its century of existence. The house has dressed princesses and first ladies and popularized tweed materials and two-piece suite designs. Whatever your favorite moment is of Chanel’s history, you can be sure that the brand’s designs are now synonymous with luxury, femininity, and true craftsmanship.

Buyma is a luxury reseller of authenticated designer goods from brands including Chanel, YSL, and Balenciaga. Unlike many sellers in the industry, Buyma has a multi-step authentication process for every product sold, guaranteeing your safety and satisfaction with every purchase you make.

Shopping for designer brands doesn’t have to break your wallet. Explore Buyma’s wide range of Chanel dresses and add a piece of history to your collection today.